The World of Fine Wine magazine published a tasting of Orange wines in November 2023.
“David Williams is joined by Anne Krebiehl MW and Francis Percival for a stimulating tasting of the fashionable but still divisive category known variously as amber, orange, or skin-contact white wine, featuring wines of multiple hues and origins made from macerated white grapes.
For scores and detailed notes on all 31 wines included in the tasting, subscribe to The World of Fine Wine.”
“The best are thrilling, gastronomic, individualistic wines, utterly original in flavor and texture. And while they are made from very different varieties and maceration regimens, in very different places, together they show, as Anne Krebiehl MW puts it so nicely, “how much creative and expressive scope there is, and how much of what is otherwise often discarded holds both flavor and grip.”
Same River Twice Vin de France Rhône France 2022 (12.5% ABV) | 92
AK | Golden richness in the glass segues to an almost golden-apricot and peach glow on the nose. Hints of fresh Navel orange and juicy satsuma flesh make this even more enticing. The palate retains this attractive, citric juiciness and enfolds it in a fine web of tannin that adds a lovely dimension to the light, bone-dry body of the wine, ending in a slight almond-skin bitterness. The finish is a lasting note of fine lemon and bitter pith, absolutely mouthwatering and totally versatile. Delicious and so balanced. | 92
FP | Rich deep gold. Sophisticated. This is a very different take on maceration: green raisins and orchard fruit give an autumnal character; there is even a touch of cinnamon. Green apple acidity coheres well with the whole, while the tannic structure takes a back seat. An amiable wine with plenty of charm. | 93
DW | Rich amber-gold color, just leaning into “orange.” Attractive, typically orchard-fruited traditional white Rhône nose; the palate is sumptuously peach-apricotty, the atmosphere drowsy and late-summer garden fragrant, the extended maceration apparent only in the very subtle streak of bitterness that lends contrast to the finish and in the very modest sprinkling of tannin. Fruit-filled finish. | 92